I use to think
being a food critic was the best job in the world. You get to eat at many different food
establishments including ones you would never go to unless you were a) writing
about them and b) not paying for the meal. But there is a downside to this as
well.
Food has never
been my friend. I have always had a love
hate relationship with it. Love because
some foods just taste so good and hate because all those calories seem to go and stay directly on every part of
my body. So a job of being around food was a little scary to me.
Reading Ruth
Reichl's book has opened my eyes to what it really means to be a food
critic. She writes about her time as the
New York Times food critic. In New York
as in many other big cities what a food critic says is extremely
important. In fact it can make or break
an establishment. One of the challenges
Ruth faced was anonymity . If the restaurant knows who you are the service and
food is quite different than if you were say for example, me. It was
interesting reading about her efforts to disguise herself especially when she
spoke about transforming into her mother.
It made her look at her a little differently although the reader gets a
hint that the relationship was a bit rocky.
I am sure all of
you have walked into a restaurant and felt like you were being treated
differently than other people. One
incident that stays firmly planted in my mind was when I was in high
school. My friends and I had taken the
train into the city to wonder around. After hanging out for the day we decided
to eat an early dinner before catching the train home . My parents had taken me to this restaurant,
Le Rivage when we were seeing a Broadway show and I had thought the food was good
and for a French restaurant reasonable, so we went there. For reasons we could not immediately
understand they were not happy to see us.
As they handed us a menu the waitress reminded us that there was an
expected gratuity at the end of the meal to be added on to the tab. This really pissed us off and we should have
left right there but we decided to stay.
I can say this, the food and service was very different than it had been
with my parents. Had I been a food
critic this would have been reflected in my write up of the restaurant.
Reichl has an
amazing way of describing her experiences and she also includes her
reviews. Her writing is humorous making
the book fun to read. She also includes
recipes including one for New York style cheese cake. Because of this, I have
added this to my foodie quest series.
If you haven't
read it already definitely put it on your list.
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